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Trip Planner
While I have assembled copious notes on the PRISM/privacy/This-is-the-beginning-of-the-end debate, methinks the passions are a little too high right now for rational debate -- not that this is necessarily the place you come for a rational perspective, I confess. Instead, this week I would like to explore how I came to be downwind of tear gas shot by Turkish police at protesters in and around Taksim Square in Istanbul.
In every relationship, tasks seem to adhere to the person 1) most inclined to do them on a regular basis because they are basically a gender match (check tire pressure vs. reorganize closets); 2) who hates doing it, but realizes that in order to maintain that oh-so-delicate marital balance of power, they should just shut up and keep doing it; 3) who is really far better than the other person at getting it all done; or, perhaps most pervasively 4) is so compulsive and anxious about having it done right, they essentially absorb ownership of the task.
In a perfect world, all tasks are shared equally and no one complains to their friends at Pilates class that their spouse sits on his big fat ass watching football while the leaves still need to be raked. But since the beginning of time, it seems those of the male persuasion have lagged well behind their significant others in the delivery of child-rearing and household maintenance. I believe there are several Old Testament references to back that up.
In our home the division seems to fall pretty clearly between "inside" the home and "outside" -- meaning that if it happens in the yard or to a car or on an athletic field, it is my responsibility. Still, there are plenty of inside-the home tasks that adhere to me, including fixing anything broken, paying the bills and yelling at the kids for still being up at midnight on a school night.
Thanks to item 4 in above paragraph 2, my wife is the family's default travel agent. Not that the rest of us aren't perfectly capable of searching Kayak and booking flights -- but we tend to do it about two hours before it is time to leave for the airport. My wife starts as soon as there is even a vague reference to the possibility of a trip at some point in the yet-to-be-determined future.
And unlike us, rather than click on the first hotel that meets our price point (or has a cool infinity pool), she gets on the phone for hours, grilling professional travel agents and friends who might have been to that city to assure that there are no roaches or nearby construction sites. The result is that, by and large, our family trips are pothole-free.
With a recent college graduate about to leave home and another spawn about to leave for college, my wife perceptively thought this might be the right year for a significant family trip. So off we went for a cruise from Athens to Istanbul, with exotic stops like Mykonos, Santorini and Rhodes in between. While the kids grumbled that the average age of the others on our ship was "old retired people," they were just as dazzled by the sights along the way as we were. Although being "force-marched" by the old man across the ruins at Rhodes, Ephesus and Istanbul was deemed cruel and unusual punishment.
One can only hope that the kids at least appreciated the sights, people, meals and shopping involved in the trek -- because NONE of us fully appreciated the amount of forward planning that clearly had gone into the trip. Not everything was perfect (including being downwind of that Taksim Square tear gas), but enough was that I thought it more important to say thank you to our default in-house travel agent in a very public way, than debate PRISM, et al.
So, Cleary Simpson (wherever you are in Cannes today), thank you for doing all that grindingly frustrating advance planning, for those hours on the phone, for second-guessing every moment, all the while working your real job and managing the two graduation activities. Although they are still sleeping off that 11-hour flight back from Istanbul, I know the kids join me in profound gratitude for a trip well done.
Top 10 Greek island holiday destinations for summer 2013
Whether it's some peace and quiet, charm, history, beauty, sports, glitz
or glamour that you're looking for, the Greek islands have it all. Here
are our top 10 choices...
Readers' tips: The Greek Islands
Readers offer their tips, recommendations and travel advice for holiday destinations from The Greek Islands.
Jewel in the crown
The fertile isle of Naxos in the Cyclades has the café-lined harbour; the
sparkling, sapphire sea; the door to Apollo's Temple from where you can
stand and feel like a Borrower; and hidden, peaceful beaches. But its jewel
is concealed in the Cyclades highest peak – Mount Zeus.
Take a local bus (or drive) from Naxos town along the winding roads inland
which pass olive groves, orchards and tiny villages en route to the village
of Filoti. Less than a mile south of this village there's a sign: Aria
Spring and Cave of Zeus. The driver will no doubt be speeding, so give him
some warning if he hasn't guessed where you're heading already. About
another mile from here starts the most interesting route up to where, in
ancient time, locals believed the god Zeus was born.
The path to Zeus's cave veers you through green mountainsides dotted with
thistles and wild flowers. The only sound other than your footsteps will be
the mountain goats, higher and more agile than you – how did they get up
there? Nearer to the cave you'll have to use all your fours as you climb,
Borrower-like once more, over bigger boulders. But then you're sitting at
the cave door; entering the past, where locals performed rites and
ceremonies, believing in the importance of this place.
It's your choice where you go next: back down for a shady lunch in Filoti,
onwards and upwards to the sunny summit. Or, you could just stay in the
silence of the mountain with your picnic and imagine the start in life that
the father of the gods had.
Laura Alonso, Norfolk
More feedback from readers
Plan aheadWe have made more than 30 trips travelling independently to the Greek Islands. My advice for travellers would be: Do your research beforehand. In particular study ferry routes and timetables in order to check the practicality of your proposed trip.
For novice independent travellers the easiest option is to combine islands on the same ferry run, such as Paros/Naxos/Santorini, Syros/Tinos/Mykonos, or Serifos/Sifnos/Milos. Greek Travel Pages (gtp.gr) and Open Seas (openseas.gr) are good for ferry information.
Be aware, however, that not all ferry companies release their summer schedules at the same time, and some can be quite late to do so. If this makes planning difficult, the Open Seas site lets you backdate so you can find out last year's schedules for the dates you need, although of course you cannot guarantee that this year will be the same.
If you are on a budget remember that the high speed services are considerably more expensive, generally speaking, the slower the cheaper. And be prepared to be flexible.
Linda Clegg, Warwickshire
Rooftop experience
Most people visit Lindos, the picturesque white-cubed village on Rhodes, on a day trip from other resorts. There is also a fantastic boat trip from Pallas beach in Lindos around to St Paul's Bay where The Guns of Navarone was shot. But do stay to make the most of the rooftop restaurants, many which are lit by fairy lights and candles – as well as moonlight and shooting stars, which are plentiful.
Sharon Hanley, by email
Early start
Shipwreck Cove on Zakynthos (Zante) is a beautiful small bay with stunning views and great for sunbathing. However, you really need to get there early. Come midday, lots of large cruisers arrive, each with hundreds of people and it can get very packed.
The other problem is that the cruisers churn up the water, meaning that you can't see anything if you're diving or snorkelling. Aim to arrive before 9am, then get ready to leave when you see the big boats coming in. It's much the same with the viewing platform at the top of the cliffs – you caqueue for more than an hour if you leave it too late and the tour buses arrive
Stephen Barnes, Newtownabbey
Free and easy
Having lived in the Greek Islands, on and off for several years, we suggest the following tips. Unless you know exactly where you want to go book a cheap return flight to one of the larger islands and take a ferry, stopping off en route, until you find an island that ticks your boxes. It is easy to do and some of the smaller islands on the main ferry routes are well worth a visit. Just ensure you leave enough time for the return ferry journey, to catch the return flight.
Never bother booking accommodation on the smaller islands – just haggle with those who approach you with offers of accommodation at the ferry ports.
If you cannot find accommodation that suits, have a coffee in the nearest taverna and ask if the owner, waiting staff etc can suggest accommodation- you will surprised at just how many "cousins" will be available to rent rooms at a price you require.
Anne and Ron Richardson, West Sussex
Thermal tip
No visit to Lesbos would be complete without renting a car and checking out some of the amazing landscapes. It's surprisingly green on the island, with fantastic sunsets from the beaches – Petra is particularly impressive and has great local ouzo. Go to the world famous fossilised forest at Sigri (take a hat and lots of water) and take an invigorating hot dip in the thermal springs at Eftalou – you can hear the waves outside the window!
Rod Cornaby, East Sussex
Lush cuisine
My top tip for travelling to Greece is food-related. Make your meals in Greece an experience – take your time, peruse the menu thoroughly – or look in the kitchen and see what takes your fancy. Then relax and wait for fresh, tasty dishes which will revitalise your palate. And my favourite choice would be some proper homous and pitta, chicken souvlaki for main and fresh fruit to end – all washed down with a local red wine. Lush dining.
Kathryn Hearn, Herts
Artist's choice
For those who not only like to take home a golden tan but also a memorable souvenir, why not consider a painting holiday on one of the Greek Islands. Some years back we flew to Kos then took a three-and-a-half-hour ferry ride to the beautiful, tiny island of Lipsi. The views were glorious, the soft sandy beaches a delight and the small guesthouses and hotels were welcoming and good value.
Every morning after breakfast the dozen or so potential Van Goghs who formed our group were given a demonstration by Muriel Owen on various aspects of water colour painting, perspective, shading, mixing, etc. We then split up, sat ourselves down comfortably, surrounded by the artistic paraphernalia necessary to create a masterpiece, and concentrated on a pot, a door, or a tree.
Two or three excursions were organised to the islands of Patmos, Leros, and Arki, where we witnessed preparations for a baptism. An exhibition of our work was organised on the village green for the last but one day of our holiday.To my utter joy I sold a painting, entitled "Mono Dendri" (Single Tree) for the equivalent of £11.
Marion Smith, Lincolnshire
Island wedding
As we had both been married before, our wedding in 2006 had to be something different and we didn't want a "package deal" so where else could we choose but Naxos?
The legal documentation did take that bit longer as there were no formal wedding packages existing for the island so we had to go via a notary in Athens but this just added to the authentic Greek feel to our wedding plans.
Arriving on the Monday of the wedding we went along to a wonderful jeweller on the harbour front where our wedding rings were designed, made and engraved in just two days.
The wedding was conducted on the hillside in front of the Portara with the mayor having given his permission and then officiating.
After the ceremony my wife and I were driven through the town and past the harbour where every boat sounded their klaxons, every stall and bar owner came out to applaud us.
We have since returned on two other occasions and are glad to find that nothing has really changed. The island and its people are just as welcoming, friendly and keen to ensure we as travellers have a great time.
Martyn & Anne Golesworthy, Kent
Golden sand
Chrisi Milia beach on the quiet island of Alonnisos on the Sporades has fantastic golden sand, aquamarine water, leafy, shaded trees, rock pools and a taverna. Hire a moped and check out the island's many other coves, bays and beaches. Spot dolphins and seals on a boat trip from Patitiri harbour into Greece's first National Marine Park. Amazing.
Lisa Grabham, Durham
Ionian inspiration
You can't beat the Ionian Islands for glorious limestone cliffs, lush green vegetation and sparkling summer seas – and Lefkada, less well known that its sisters Zakynthos, Corfu and Kefalonia is the most lovely of them all. Comparatively untouched by mass tourism, Lefkada boasts some wonderfully scenery – we were quite astounded by the Nidri waterfalls, reached by a pleasant stroll through lemon and orange groves from the coastal town of the same name.
Those wishing to experience some traditional Kafenion culture should take the local ferry to the small island of Meganissi and visit the lovely village of Spartohori. What's more, the rather hysteric inflation of recent times seems to have been more subdued here – plenty of Greek salads to be enjoyed for around the five euro mark, and wonderful fresh souvlaki for little more than seven.
Caroline Barraclough, by email
Perfect gem
In the far north of Kefalonia, largest of the Ionian Islands and a few minutes ferry ride from Ithaca lies Fiscardo. The only untouched village after an earthquake in 1953, the island has gradually been rebuilt, but Fiscardo stands like a perfect gem of Venetian architecture around a harbour where little shops and restaurants and moored boats of all types and sizes are untroubled by motor traffic. The buildings are painted soft pretty colours with beautiful wrought iron balconies and we go by foot in the evening down the hill from our hotel, a 10-minute walk through the lush green trees that border the road.
By the harbour's edge we can choose to wander from an early evening cocktail, past the boats to find a taverna or fish restaurant and spend the evening watching the world go by. Locals, promenaders, boat crew, families, all in a good-natured, peaceful, happy atmosphere.
The Almyra hotel, where we have stayed for the last four years, is owned by a local Fiscardo family, who also run Tasia, the best restaurant in the village as far as we are concerned.
Gail Graham-Brown, by email
Greek haven
Hidden in among the pine trees, with views over the crescent-shaped bay, is the Armonia Bay Hotel on Samos. Being a small hotel, you really do feel like you've escaped the crowds. I particularly remember the relaxed breakfasts on the terrace and the hotel's simple but stylish décor, both of which help to make this a wonderful place to unwind. The beach is just a couple of minutes stroll away through the shady olives trees.
If you want to venture out of the bay there are plenty of walks that take you through old Greek villages. I love the fact that the island doesn't seem to have pandered to tourists, but just provides a traditional Greek haven away from the bustle of everyday life.
Suzi Richer, Bewdley
Price watch
Always check a few prices before ordering food and drinks to avoid rip-off experiences. Generally the simple tavernas with uncomfortable chairs have the warmest welcome, best local food and cheapest prices – but not always.
Drink carafe wine not bottled. Clear, bright and quaffable, it is much cheaper and a world away from the awful home-made oxidised plonk they often served years ago – although occasionally it is still offered, so maybe best to order just a miso (half litre) or even tetarto (250ml) until you know if you like it.
When eating out, order the Greek way – a few dishes on the table to share. Maybe just two appetisers, one meat or fish plate for two people. You can order more after if still hungry. Don't expect food to come in sequence, or all together. Each dish will come when it's ready!
Get a hire car and go to places where they don't speak much English. Even with only tourist Greek you'll be surprised how well you can communicate with sign language and just a few words in inland villages or tiny resorts.
Sylvia Cook, Wiltshire
Local holidays
Be aware that Greek Orthodox holidays are not necessary the same as our holidays. Check that it is not Easter weekend for instance. If it is and you are on a self-catering break on one of the smaller islands such as Symi, ask the locals on what days the shops will be open and stock up with basics, as bread and fresh produce could be in short supply after a couple of bank holidays. Also not all of the tavernas will be open especially if it is early season.
Lester Annis, Llanelli
Once bitten...
Mosquitoes will be an issue for many holiday-makers, so unless you know for certain they won't bite you, make sure that from teatime onwards you wear an effective insect repellent. I've tried many for Corfu, but the only one that works a treat and doesn't smell foul is a product by Avon called Skin-So-Soft. Kind to the skin and washes out of your clothes afterwards.
Karen Waddy, Essex
Why do you need visas for cruises?
Everyone asks ...
Why does my cruise operator require me to have a visa for all countries on an itinerary, even where I don’t plan to leave the ship?Visas can be expensive, and while a country’s immigration authorities might not require a visa in the case of passengers who choose not to disembark, the cruise operator might, for good reason.
Although you might not plan to leave the vessel at a particular port, a medical emergency or sudden calamity at home might require it. There might even be unforeseen circumstances on board that require all passengers to disembark. If you don’t have a visa in any of these situations, you could face a long and complicated delay, which is the last thing you need in an emergency. According to Princess Cruises, passengers will be permitted to board their ships without a visa for all ports on the itinerary, but they will be required to sign a disclaimer.
Some other cruise operators deny boarding to passengers who do not have all the required visas.
Why doesn’t the cruise operator simply apply for visas on behalf of all passengers and add this to the price?
All countries have different regulations and restrictions that can vary depending on the passport, and charges are not uniform. Some countries also require visa applicants to attend their consulate or embassy to complete face-to-face verification.
Indulge in Turkish delights
We're doing a fairly busy tour of the Middle East in September that ends in Istanbul. Can you recommend a resort reasonably close to Istanbul or somewhere easy to get to for a week's R&R?- B. Read, Woollahra.
My pick is the Bodrum Peninsula, and the way to get there is by plane from Istanbul to Bodrum-Milas Airport rather than the 12-hour bus. The city of Bodrum is built on the site of ancient Halicarnassus, and although it's a delight, it has morphed into a popular party zone.
For something quieter you might consider Yalikavak, wrapped around a small harbour on the peninsula's north-west corner. Local accommodation includes boutique beach properties as well as full-scale resorts. Check Venere (venere.com) for various options. Elsewhere on the peninsula, the choice of resorts ranges from Aman Resorts' glossy Amanruya (amanresorts.com) to the modest Karianda (karianda.com).
Such wild diversity across one continent
My bucket list includes Africa to visit the game parks and to also experience the country’s culture. We will have about four weeks to travel and would like to do it comfortably. I would appreciate some inside tips on where to go. - J. Barlow, Knoxfield, Vic.Everyone has their favourite bit of Africa but, for me, it’s Botswana’s Okavango Delta (pictured). This is a vast wetland that supports a huge population of wildlife over a big area, from tiny reed frogs to elephants, rhinos, hippos and the predators at the pointy end of the food chain.
Since the human population is low, it’s in pristine condition.
Timing is important if you want to see animals in Africa, and the optimal period varies from one habitat to another. In the Okavango, it’s September to October, the dry season, when there’s less water around, the grass is lower and animals tend to congregate around the remaining waterholes.
Scripts to deal with ocean's motion
We are first-time cruisers, a family of five sailing on the Carnival Spirit on a Pacific cruise with my elderly mother and two kids under 12. One child suffers from motion sickness and so do I. We are worried about getting seasick. We have booked two aft cabins to minimise movement. What are the best seasick medications and products? - C. Harris, Leura.As a fellow sufferer, I feel your pain. There are now some very effective prescription medications available to counteract this problem, so get along to your doctor. I’ve used medication in the past without drowsiness or other side effects and it should be sufficient to ensure your cruise is all that you want it to be.
Depending on the age of your child, though, you might have to consider other measures. Sea-Bands, which are acupressure bands that sit around the wrist, seem to work well in many cases. Ginger pills are another potential remedy.
Carnival Spirit is equipped with stabilisers that dampen the ship’s movement, and fresh air and a view of the horizon can help, so spend plenty of time out on deck. The centre of the ship is going to move around less than the bow and stern. If, despite all your measures, you still feel unwell, see the ship’s doctor.
Island hopping is stress-free
Following a guided tour of Turkey, we are planning to visit the Greek islands in October-November. I am looking at flying from Istanbul to Athens but feel trepidation at the difficulties of catching ferries and finding accommodation. We are both in our 60s and hoping for a stress-free holiday. Which islands should we visit? M. Cullis, Denistone.You’re travelling well outside peak holiday season and should find a flight from Istanbul to Athens for less than $100 each. Try momondo.com.
You should have no problem making your way around the Greek islands on ferries and finding accommodation. October is a lovely time but by November the tourism infrastructure will be winding down.
The islands vary tremendously in character. You might confine your odyssey to a particular island group and the Cyclades could be a happy choice. Within this group you have Santorini, the most spectacular of all the islands, Paros with its pretty villages and Naxos with its terraced interior, quilted with olive groves, vineyards and giant fig trees.
Just off Mykonos, Delos is an open-air museum piled with temples and statues. Apart from tiny Delos, I suggest three islands and a minimum of three nights in each.
Over to you
Beginning on June 23, The Tripologist will introduce a new feature. Called ‘‘Over to You’’, this is a chance for you to share some treasured memories from your own travels, and to give other travellers the benefit of your experiences. Chosen answers will be published on this page in three weeks.Strikes in Greece, travel plans expected to be disrupted
If you’re on your way
to Greece today or tomorrow, you may want to double check your plans.
Another 24-hour general strike is taking place over austerity plans. The
strike effects the entire country and will mainly disrupt international
flights and ferry services, expected to leave hundreds of travellers
stranded in Greece over the next couple of days.
A 24-hour general strike began this morning when the streets began to fill with protesters in Athens and other major Greek cities. There will be several blockades, the biggest at Piraeus, where protests will stop travellers from being able to board ferries headed to Greece’s islands. A similar blockage took place last week, leaving countless tourists stranded and having to make alternative travel plans.
This is the 5th protest against austerity measures to be implemented until 2014 in order to help Greece get out of its financial crunch. Since February austerity protests have disrupted air travel, delayed trains and blocked roads. This of course doesn’t help the tourism industry, one of the strongest industries in the country for bringing in foreign income. To read more about previous strikes, check out Greece: the uprise traveller’s should know about.
Parliament is expected to meet today to discuss certain terms of the austerity measures, pension plans which raises the retirement age to 65 and cuts pension funds for retired workers.
Aegean Airlines has cancelled 14 of its flights today from Athens to Kavala, Chios, Ioannina, Mykonos, Mytilini and Santorini. Olympic Air has also cancelled most of its domestic flights today due to the strikes.
If you are planning to fly to Greece today, either check on-line to see if your flight is delayed or contact your airline directly.
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