Readers' tips: The Greek Islands

 

Readers offer their tips, recommendations and travel advice for holiday destinations from The Greek Islands.



Jewel in the crown
The fertile isle of Naxos in the Cyclades has the café-lined harbour; the sparkling, sapphire sea; the door to Apollo's Temple from where you can stand and feel like a Borrower; and hidden, peaceful beaches. But its jewel is concealed in the Cyclades highest peak – Mount Zeus.
Take a local bus (or drive) from Naxos town along the winding roads inland which pass olive groves, orchards and tiny villages en route to the village of Filoti. Less than a mile south of this village there's a sign: Aria Spring and Cave of Zeus. The driver will no doubt be speeding, so give him some warning if he hasn't guessed where you're heading already. About another mile from here starts the most interesting route up to where, in ancient time, locals believed the god Zeus was born.
The path to Zeus's cave veers you through green mountainsides dotted with thistles and wild flowers. The only sound other than your footsteps will be the mountain goats, higher and more agile than you – how did they get up there? Nearer to the cave you'll have to use all your fours as you climb, Borrower-like once more, over bigger boulders. But then you're sitting at the cave door; entering the past, where locals performed rites and ceremonies, believing in the importance of this place.
It's your choice where you go next: back down for a shady lunch in Filoti, onwards and upwards to the sunny summit. Or, you could just stay in the silence of the mountain with your picnic and imagine the start in life that the father of the gods had.
Laura Alonso, Norfolk

More feedback from readers

Plan ahead
We have made more than 30 trips travelling independently to the Greek Islands. My advice for travellers would be: Do your research beforehand. In particular study ferry routes and timetables in order to check the practicality of your proposed trip.
For novice independent travellers the easiest option is to combine islands on the same ferry run, such as Paros/Naxos/Santorini, Syros/Tinos/Mykonos, or Serifos/Sifnos/Milos. Greek Travel Pages (gtp.gr) and Open Seas (openseas.gr) are good for ferry information.
Be aware, however, that not all ferry companies release their summer schedules at the same time, and some can be quite late to do so. If this makes planning difficult, the Open Seas site lets you backdate so you can find out last year's schedules for the dates you need, although of course you cannot guarantee that this year will be the same.
If you are on a budget remember that the high speed services are considerably more expensive, generally speaking, the slower the cheaper. And be prepared to be flexible.
Linda Clegg, Warwickshire
Rooftop experience
Most people visit Lindos, the picturesque white-cubed village on Rhodes, on a day trip from other resorts. There is also a fantastic boat trip from Pallas beach in Lindos around to St Paul's Bay where The Guns of Navarone was shot. But do stay to make the most of the rooftop restaurants, many which are lit by fairy lights and candles – as well as moonlight and shooting stars, which are plentiful.
Sharon Hanley, by email
Early start
Shipwreck Cove on Zakynthos (Zante) is a beautiful small bay with stunning views and great for sunbathing. However, you really need to get there early. Come midday, lots of large cruisers arrive, each with hundreds of people and it can get very packed.
The other problem is that the cruisers churn up the water, meaning that you can't see anything if you're diving or snorkelling. Aim to arrive before 9am, then get ready to leave when you see the big boats coming in. It's much the same with the viewing platform at the top of the cliffs – you caqueue for more than an hour if you leave it too late and the tour buses arrive
Stephen Barnes, Newtownabbey
Free and easy
Having lived in the Greek Islands, on and off for several years, we suggest the following tips. Unless you know exactly where you want to go book a cheap return flight to one of the larger islands and take a ferry, stopping off en route, until you find an island that ticks your boxes. It is easy to do and some of the smaller islands on the main ferry routes are well worth a visit. Just ensure you leave enough time for the return ferry journey, to catch the return flight.
Never bother booking accommodation on the smaller islands – just haggle with those who approach you with offers of accommodation at the ferry ports.
If you cannot find accommodation that suits, have a coffee in the nearest taverna and ask if the owner, waiting staff etc can suggest accommodation- you will surprised at just how many "cousins" will be available to rent rooms at a price you require.
Anne and Ron Richardson, West Sussex
Thermal tip
No visit to Lesbos would be complete without renting a car and checking out some of the amazing landscapes. It's surprisingly green on the island, with fantastic sunsets from the beaches – Petra is particularly impressive and has great local ouzo. Go to the world famous fossilised forest at Sigri (take a hat and lots of water) and take an invigorating hot dip in the thermal springs at Eftalou – you can hear the waves outside the window!
Rod Cornaby, East Sussex
Lush cuisine
My top tip for travelling to Greece is food-related. Make your meals in Greece an experience – take your time, peruse the menu thoroughly – or look in the kitchen and see what takes your fancy. Then relax and wait for fresh, tasty dishes which will revitalise your palate. And my favourite choice would be some proper homous and pitta, chicken souvlaki for main and fresh fruit to end – all washed down with a local red wine. Lush dining.
Kathryn Hearn, Herts
Artist's choice
For those who not only like to take home a golden tan but also a memorable souvenir, why not consider a painting holiday on one of the Greek Islands. Some years back we flew to Kos then took a three-and-a-half-hour ferry ride to the beautiful, tiny island of Lipsi. The views were glorious, the soft sandy beaches a delight and the small guesthouses and hotels were welcoming and good value.
Every morning after breakfast the dozen or so potential Van Goghs who formed our group were given a demonstration by Muriel Owen on various aspects of water colour painting, perspective, shading, mixing, etc. We then split up, sat ourselves down comfortably, surrounded by the artistic paraphernalia necessary to create a masterpiece, and concentrated on a pot, a door, or a tree.
Two or three excursions were organised to the islands of Patmos, Leros, and Arki, where we witnessed preparations for a baptism. An exhibition of our work was organised on the village green for the last but one day of our holiday.To my utter joy I sold a painting, entitled "Mono Dendri" (Single Tree) for the equivalent of £11.
Marion Smith, Lincolnshire
Island wedding
As we had both been married before, our wedding in 2006 had to be something different and we didn't want a "package deal" so where else could we choose but Naxos?
The legal documentation did take that bit longer as there were no formal wedding packages existing for the island so we had to go via a notary in Athens but this just added to the authentic Greek feel to our wedding plans.
Arriving on the Monday of the wedding we went along to a wonderful jeweller on the harbour front where our wedding rings were designed, made and engraved in just two days.
The wedding was conducted on the hillside in front of the Portara with the mayor having given his permission and then officiating.
After the ceremony my wife and I were driven through the town and past the harbour where every boat sounded their klaxons, every stall and bar owner came out to applaud us.
We have since returned on two other occasions and are glad to find that nothing has really changed. The island and its people are just as welcoming, friendly and keen to ensure we as travellers have a great time.
Martyn & Anne Golesworthy, Kent
Golden sand
Chrisi Milia beach on the quiet island of Alonnisos on the Sporades has fantastic golden sand, aquamarine water, leafy, shaded trees, rock pools and a taverna. Hire a moped and check out the island's many other coves, bays and beaches. Spot dolphins and seals on a boat trip from Patitiri harbour into Greece's first National Marine Park. Amazing.
Lisa Grabham, Durham
Ionian inspiration
You can't beat the Ionian Islands for glorious limestone cliffs, lush green vegetation and sparkling summer seas – and Lefkada, less well known that its sisters Zakynthos, Corfu and Kefalonia is the most lovely of them all. Comparatively untouched by mass tourism, Lefkada boasts some wonderfully scenery – we were quite astounded by the Nidri waterfalls, reached by a pleasant stroll through lemon and orange groves from the coastal town of the same name.
Those wishing to experience some traditional Kafenion culture should take the local ferry to the small island of Meganissi and visit the lovely village of Spartohori. What's more, the rather hysteric inflation of recent times seems to have been more subdued here – plenty of Greek salads to be enjoyed for around the five euro mark, and wonderful fresh souvlaki for little more than seven.
Caroline Barraclough, by email

Perfect gem
In the far north of Kefalonia, largest of the Ionian Islands and a few minutes ferry ride from Ithaca lies Fiscardo. The only untouched village after an earthquake in 1953, the island has gradually been rebuilt, but Fiscardo stands like a perfect gem of Venetian architecture around a harbour where little shops and restaurants and moored boats of all types and sizes are untroubled by motor traffic. The buildings are painted soft pretty colours with beautiful wrought iron balconies and we go by foot in the evening down the hill from our hotel, a 10-minute walk through the lush green trees that border the road.
By the harbour's edge we can choose to wander from an early evening cocktail, past the boats to find a taverna or fish restaurant and spend the evening watching the world go by. Locals, promenaders, boat crew, families, all in a good-natured, peaceful, happy atmosphere.
The Almyra hotel, where we have stayed for the last four years, is owned by a local Fiscardo family, who also run Tasia, the best restaurant in the village as far as we are concerned.
Gail Graham-Brown, by email
Greek haven
Hidden in among the pine trees, with views over the crescent-shaped bay, is the Armonia Bay Hotel on Samos. Being a small hotel, you really do feel like you've escaped the crowds. I particularly remember the relaxed breakfasts on the terrace and the hotel's simple but stylish décor, both of which help to make this a wonderful place to unwind. The beach is just a couple of minutes stroll away through the shady olives trees.
If you want to venture out of the bay there are plenty of walks that take you through old Greek villages. I love the fact that the island doesn't seem to have pandered to tourists, but just provides a traditional Greek haven away from the bustle of everyday life.
Suzi Richer, Bewdley
Price watch
Always check a few prices before ordering food and drinks to avoid rip-off experiences. Generally the simple tavernas with uncomfortable chairs have the warmest welcome, best local food and cheapest prices – but not always.
Drink carafe wine not bottled. Clear, bright and quaffable, it is much cheaper and a world away from the awful home-made oxidised plonk they often served years ago – although occasionally it is still offered, so maybe best to order just a miso (half litre) or even tetarto (250ml) until you know if you like it.
When eating out, order the Greek way – a few dishes on the table to share. Maybe just two appetisers, one meat or fish plate for two people. You can order more after if still hungry. Don't expect food to come in sequence, or all together. Each dish will come when it's ready!
Get a hire car and go to places where they don't speak much English. Even with only tourist Greek you'll be surprised how well you can communicate with sign language and just a few words in inland villages or tiny resorts.
Sylvia Cook, Wiltshire
Local holidays
Be aware that Greek Orthodox holidays are not necessary the same as our holidays. Check that it is not Easter weekend for instance. If it is and you are on a self-catering break on one of the smaller islands such as Symi, ask the locals on what days the shops will be open and stock up with basics, as bread and fresh produce could be in short supply after a couple of bank holidays. Also not all of the tavernas will be open especially if it is early season.
Lester Annis, Llanelli
Once bitten...
Mosquitoes will be an issue for many holiday-makers, so unless you know for certain they won't bite you, make sure that from teatime onwards you wear an effective insect repellent. I've tried many for Corfu, but the only one that works a treat and doesn't smell foul is a product by Avon called Skin-So-Soft. Kind to the skin and washes out of your clothes afterwards.
Karen Waddy, Essex